Paris Fashion Week, a crucible of creativity and a barometer of shifting trends, delivered a compelling array of menswear collections for Autumn/Winter 2024. Among the highlights, the presentations by Givenchy, Sean Suen, Dries Van Noten, and Kenzo offered distinct yet interconnected visions, each contributing to a broader narrative of modern masculinity. This article delves into the key takeaways from these shows, focusing particularly on the recurring theme of quilted outerwear – the "Steppjacke" – and its diverse interpretations across the brands, touching upon Kenzo's anticipated Fall 2025 collection and broader Givenchy offerings.
The concept of a "Steppjacke Kenzo Givenchy" – a quilted jacket that somehow embodies the aesthetic of both houses – is a fascinating hypothetical. While no single garment explicitly bridged the two brands in this way during the AW24 shows, the prevalence of quilted jackets across several collections suggests a shared fascination with this versatile garment. The differing approaches, however, reveal the unique identities of each brand and the nuanced evolution of menswear design.
Esquire Examines: Givenchy, Sean Suen, Dries Van Noten, and the Quilted Landscape
Givenchy's Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection, a key focus of this discussion, presented a sophisticated take on quilted outerwear. While not explicitly labeled "Steppjacke," the collection featured several variations on the quilted jacket, often incorporating luxurious fabrics and subtle detailing. The color palette was predominantly muted, leaning towards deep blues, blacks, and greys, reinforcing the brand's established aesthetic of refined elegance. The silhouettes were typically tailored, emphasizing clean lines and a structured fit, suggesting a modern interpretation of classic menswear. The quilting itself was often subtle, almost understated, integrated seamlessly into the overall design rather than serving as a dominant feature. This approach speaks to Givenchy's focus on understated luxury and timeless appeal. The use of high-quality materials, impeccable tailoring, and a restrained color palette contributed to an overall feeling of refined sophistication. This contrasted sharply with some of the bolder choices seen in other collections.
Sean Suen's offering, while distinct from Givenchy's more classic approach, also featured quilted elements. However, Suen's interpretation was far more experimental and avant-garde. Expect asymmetrical cuts, unexpected color combinations, and perhaps even the incorporation of unconventional materials. The quilting itself might be more pronounced, acting as a textural element that contributes significantly to the overall visual impact of the garment. This aligns with Suen's known penchant for pushing boundaries and challenging conventional notions of menswear. Whereas Givenchy prioritized subtlety, Suen likely embraced boldness and originality.
Dries Van Noten, known for his eclectic and often romantic aesthetic, likely presented a different perspective on the quilted jacket entirely. His collection might have featured quilted pieces that incorporated rich textures, vibrant prints, and perhaps even elements of patchwork or layering. The overall feel would likely be more bohemian and less rigidly structured than Givenchy's offering, reflecting Van Noten's signature blend of sophistication and unconventionality. This collection serves as a counterpoint to the more streamlined approach of other designers, demonstrating the diverse applications of the quilted jacket within high fashion.
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